Composite and timber decking, raised decks and steps, garden structures and the small roofs and external carpentry that go with them. The part that matters is under the boards: a frame at the right centres, set to fall, properly supported and ventilated so the deck is still flat and solid years after the boards have weathered. We build the frame first and lay the boards second, which is the opposite of how a cheap deck gets done.

Joists at the centres the board manufacturer specifies, levelled, set to fall and supported off pads or posts rather than sat on the soil.
Composite where you want it low maintenance, timber where you want the look and are happy to oil it, and an honest word on what each one costs over ten years.
Steps built to a consistent rise, edges fascia-boarded and corners mitred, so the deck is finished at the perimeter rather than just stopped.
Pergolas, garden buildings, small roofs and external carpentry framed and covered as part of the same job rather than left to somebody else.






It depends on what you want to do with it after it is built. Composite costs more up front, does not need oiling or staining, will not splinter and holds its colour after the first season settles. Timber costs less, looks warmer and needs cleaning and oiling most years to stay looking good. If a deck is going to be neglected, composite is the honest answer. If you enjoy looking after it, timber is lovely.
Usually not. A deck under 300mm high that does not cover more than half the garden generally falls under permitted development for a normal house. Raised decks, decks in a conservation area and decks on a listed building or a flat are where it needs checking, and so does anything that overlooks a neighbour from height. We will flag it if your job looks like one of those rather than finding out afterwards.
A properly framed timber deck in treated softwood is realistically fifteen to twenty years if it is kept clean and oiled, and the frame usually outlasts the boards. Composite boards typically carry a manufacturer warranty of twenty five years or more. In both cases the thing that kills a deck early is a frame that was undersized, sat on the ground or built without ventilation underneath, which is exactly why we spend the time on it.
Yes. Raised decks need posts set properly, bracing and a balustrade where the drop needs guarding, and steps need a consistent rise from top to bottom so people are not catching a toe on the odd one out. Both are regular work, and both are jobs where the setting out at the start decides whether the finished deck feels solid underfoot.
We take on the carpentry: framing, roof structures, cladding and the joinery on garden buildings, pergolas and small outbuildings. Bases, groundworks and anything needing a structural engineer are done alongside by the right trade rather than by us, and we will tell you what the job needs before you commit to it.
Spring and early summer are the busiest, so that is when lead times are longest. Building in autumn or winter is perfectly possible in dry spells and often gets you a shorter wait, with the caveat that timber decks are best oiled in dry, mild weather, so a winter build may need the finish topping up in the spring. It is worth a conversation about timing when we quote.
Tell us the room and roughly what you are after, and we will book a free design consultation.
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